Which Artcast Should You Use? — A practical, problem-solving guide to CC33, CC33i and FS33
Which Artcast Should You Use? — A practical, problem-solving guide to CC33, CC33i and FS33.
When you’re making resin art, the right casting resin turns a good idea into a gallery piece. Pick the wrong one and you get haze, bubbles, heat problems or endless sanding. The Artcast family solves different problems — here’s a clear, craft-friendly guide to help you choose the right one for the job.
Quick one-liners
- CC33 — extra crystal-clear, slow cure. Best for large, deep pours and gallery pieces where optical clarity matters most.
- CC33i — crystal-clear, faster cure. Best for small→medium casts and makers who need quicker turnaround.
- FS33 — Bis-A-free clear casting. Best when you need clarity and a Bis-A-free chemistry for health, regulatory or client reasons.
All are 3:1 (resin : hardener) by weight. Mix accurately.
Start with the problem — real maker scenarios
Scenario A — “My 6–8 mm river table keeps showing subtle haze in the core.”
Problem: trapped micro-bubbles and fast gel causing bubbles to lock in.
Pick: CC33. Slow cure lets micro-bubbles escape and gives you time to control exotherm and de-gas.
Scenario B — “Weekend orders — I need a clear small bowl and delivery in 48 hours.”
Problem: slow systems delay shipping.
Pick: CC33i. Faster cure but still great clarity for small/medium work.
Scenario C — “We teach kids’ workshops and clients ask for non-BisA options.”
Problem: regulatory or health preference for Bis-A-free systems.
Pick: FS33. Designed to be Bis-A-free while offering clear casting performance (test pigments/additives first).
Head-to-head at a glance
| Factor | CC33 | CC33i | FS33 |
| Mix ratio | 3:1 | 3:1 | 3:1 |
| Cure speed | Slow (long working time) | Faster (shorter working time) | Variable — follow TDS (Bis-A-free chem) |
| Best for | Large/deep pours, max clarity | Small/medium quick turnover pieces | Bis-A-free projects, clarity + safety |
| Bubble control | Easiest (degas/staged pours) | Moderate (small batches) | Moderate—test degas needs |
| Exotherm risk | Higher for big single pours — stage pours | Lower if batch size controlled | Depends on chemistry — follow batch guidance |
| Recommended users | High-end artists, galleries | Makers, production small batches | Schools, health-sensitive clients |
Practical decision flow (30 seconds)
- Is the piece large or deep (river table, big embeds)? → CC33.
- Is the piece small/medium and you need a fast turnaround? → CC33i.
- Do you require Bis-A-free chemistry for workshops/clients/regulations? → FS33.
- Unsure and it’s a small piece? → CC33i is a safe, fast starting point.
CC33 (slow, ultra-clear)
- Batch size: Small-ish batches for deep pours; for very deep pours use staged layers to control heat.
- Degas: Vacuum-degassing is highly recommended for large pours.
- Pouring: Slow pour, allow time for entrapped air to rise.
- Cure: Keep in a dust-free tent. Post-cure if TDS recommends it for max hardness and clarity.
CC33i (faster, crystal clear)
- Batch size: Mix only what you can use within working time — it gels faster.
- Bubble control: Quick torch passes after pour help; degas when possible.
- Turnaround: Demold and finish faster than CC33 — great for production.
FS33 (Bis-A-free)
- Compatibility: Test pigments, dyes and inlays — some additives behave differently with non-Bis-A chemistries.
- Handling: Follow the FS33 TDS for pot life and exotherm guidance — performance is similar but not identical to Bis-A systems.
- Use case: Workshops, client-sensitive projects or where regulatory/health constraints apply.
Common problems & quick fixes
- Cloudy core after cure (deep piece): Likely trapped micro-bubbles or too-large batch exotherm. Fix: next time use smaller batches, staged pours, and vacuum-degass.
- Surface orange peel / texture: Surface contamination or dust during cure — cure in a clean tent and avoid drafts.
- Fast gel / overheating: Batch too large or ambient too warm — reduce batch size, cool components, stage pours. CC33i is more sensitive to this.
- Hidden bubbles after demold: Consider degassing or slower pours; for CC33 staged pours help the core clear.
Compatibility & finish notes - Pigments & dyes: All three accept pigments, but always test – FS33 (Bis-A-free) may react slightly differently to some pigments.
- Inclusions: Seal porous inclusions (wood, stone) to prevent bubbles from outgassing into the resin.
- Post-cure polishing: CC33 gives the deepest optical clarity after proper post-cure and polish. CC33i polishes well with less waiting.
Quick workflow checklist (applies to all Artcast)
- Plan pours & measure mold volume.
- Prepare and seal substrates/inclusions.
- Mix 3:1 by weight precisely. Stir gently.
- Degas mixed batch if possible (esp. CC33 / deep pours).
- Pour slowly, use torch/heat to pop surface bubbles.
- Cure in dust-free area; post-cure per TDS if required.
- Sand/polish after full cure for mirror finish.
Final recommendation
- Choose CC33 when clarity above all else and you can invest time in staged pours/degassing.
- Choose CC33i when you need crystal clarity but faster delivery for small→medium work.
- Choose FS33 when Bis-A-free chemistry is required without sacrificing too much clarity—test before full runs.
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